The view above is of the right side of the SVX engine in the Vanagon, looking inboard from just aft of the right rear tire. The pipes are 3- into-1 collector style, actually, two banks of 3-into-1, joined into one bolt-on piece. The two banks of the engine are joined by a pipe that goes under the bell housing area of the transaxle. There is an outlet on the left side for a catalytic converter or muffler to be mounted there.
Here's another view....looking up, with the Syncro on a lift.
This view is of the left side, looking forward from behind the van, showing a generic 3-bolt outlet flange that any exhaust shop should very familiar with. Adding a catalytic converter or muffler here is easy.
The set of headers you see here are 'shiny metal' coated on the outside, and ceramic coated on the inside. They should stay looking like that for quite a while. With those two treatments we expect these headers to last very, very well. The advantage of the ceramic inside coating is that it helps prevent the headers from wearing out from the inside, and it keeps the heat up for oxygen sensor and catalytic converter performance. The only downside of these coatings is their cost.
How they come :
Lowest cost alternative : Shipped plain metal, ready for you to paint with hi-temp exhaust paint or for you to have treated / coated by a company that does that sort of thing. ( turbovans.com not responsible if they harm your new Headers somehow, of course ) Comes with two Oxygen Sensor bosses welded in, in the correct locations to match your SVX wiring harness. No EGR fitting - you or your exhaust shop adds one of your own design / fabrication, which must be welded in before any treatments coating of the headers, naturally. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 495.00 U.S. plus shipping.
Next up in cost level : With EGR Fitting already welded in. The fitting supplied is a regular WV part....a fitting that is used in late model gasoline Golf/Jetta type cars, onto which an exhaust gas sample tube is attached. Tube not included. You get that from a vw dealer or a junkyard. ( I'm working on getting the vw part number for one now. ) You have your exhaust shop connect , usually by welding, that metal tube to your stock SVX engine metal EGR tube. . . . . . . . . . ................ . . . . $ 525.00 U.S. plus shipping.
THE ALL-OUT DELUXE VERSION : Just like you see in the pics above. With two Oxygen Sensor bosses welded in, EGR fitting as described above, welded in, ceramic coated on the inside, 'shiny metal' coated on the outside, like sweeeet ! .................... $ 725.00 U.S. plus shipping
AVAILABILITY : These are manufactured on a when-ordered basis ( deposit required - 50 % when ordered, remainder due before shipping. Paypal accepted. ) Allow 2 weeks to get them manufactured, at least two weeks longer if you wanted them coated and treated inside and out, and a few days for shipping.
High-quality if-not-genuine Subaru Exhaust Port ( cylinder head ports ) gaskets....about $ 12.00 each, need 2 ...Exhaust Sample TUBE....new, from vw dealer....probably 35 bucks or slightly more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . New generic Catalytic Converter, with heat shields built on, to use with these headers - about $ 150.00
The entire exhaust system must be mounted to the engine only, just like the stock waterboxer system. No brackets or hangers may go from any point on the exhaust system to the body of the vehicle. The complete exhaust system must be mounted to the engine only.
It is expected that you will have some sort of bracket or brackets from the engine to the cat and muffler. I'll try to get another picture here soon. The system that I used, which is smog-legal, has a new cat mounted on the Header's outlet flange, and the pipe exiting the cat curves and joins a long slender muffler mounted across the back of the van, a glass pack type muffler, with the tail pipe at the right rear of the van, just like the original style installation. The tail pipe should be near the very corner of the van to help the exhaust gases get pulled cleanly away from the van, by air flow at the corner there.
ATTAINING SUCCESS WITH THESE HEADERS :
It is important to me that you have success with these headers. For you to attain that, it is imperative that you install them solidly, and correctly, with quality components, check tightness of connections periodically, especially after break-in, not smash them off-roading, and generally take good care of them.....like don't do 9,000 rpm up a long hill until they're red hot, then shut the engine off abruptly, or go through water or snow with them.........you know ....mount and use them carefully and you should be fine. Oh yes ........you need to have your engine running correctly too....no backfiring, no missing etc. A major part of keeping an engine system happy in any car is 'keeping and driving it in proper tune only, driving it right, and maintaining the fluids properly.' That's how you get things to work out right...take care of all related systems also.
For rust protection they should be painted on the outside with hi-temp exhaust paint at the very minimum. The deluxe treatments, ceramic coated on the inside, and 'shiny metal' coated on the outside, as shown above, are vastly superior, and recommended, of course. Ciao. SDF